The perfume industry is constantly updated. Constant scientific research and technological advances call for a continuous revision of the regulations of the perfume industry to which manufacturers of fragrances and cosmetics must pay attention. At Àuria Perfumes, we are extremely thorough with regulatory updates. We rely on Aida Mangut, part of the expert laboratory and quality team. Today, she will answer frequently asked questions about the technical and legal aspects that must be considered when starting a project to create fragrances for third parties.
At Àuria Perfumes, we ensure compliance with regulations of the perfume industry.
How does Àuria Perfumes ensure compliance with regulations?
Àuria has the certification of Good Manufacturing Practices in Cosmetic Products (UNE-EN ISO 22716), which guarantees the correct manufacturing of the products, as well as their safety, and complies with the necessary requirements of the Spanish Agency of Medicines and Medical Devices (AEMPS) regarding manufacturing and packaging activities. The company is also in the process of implementing the IFS HPC, a certification that will help reinforcing the safety guarantees of the manufactured products.
Regarding our facilities, we carry out exhaustive controls during production:
- We assess the quality of the raw materials used in the manufacture of the formulas.
- We supervise the tools and utensils used in the process (reactors, drums, packaging machines, etc.).
- We control the quality of the packaging elements and the packaging machinery involved in the process.
- We check the finished product.
In parallel, we ensure proper maintenance of all facilities and the environment in which the products are manufactured (cleanliness, air renewal, personnel flow control, restricted areas depending on the activity carried out inside them, dress code associated with the manufacturing area/work area and codes of conduct).
. During the creation phase, the safety of the product is ensured through compliance with regulations, selection of raw materials, safety assessments, etc.
What is the cosmetic safety report and what is it for?
The cosmetic safety report, a document required by Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009, consists of a dossier containing all the information and data from the safety assessment to which the cosmetic product must be subjected before being placed on the European market, which must be carried out by a qualified safety assessor.
This document must include
- Quantitative and qualitative composition of the cosmetic product.
- Physico-chemical characteristics and stability.
- Microbiological quality.
- Impurities, traces and information on packaging material.
- Normal and reasonably foreseeable use of the product.
- Data concerning exposure to the cosmetic product and to the substances of which the formulation is composed.
- Toxicological profile of the substances in the product.
- Undesirable effects and serious undesirable effects.
- Conclusion of the assessment.
- Labelling with warnings and instructions for use.
- Reasoning of the entire evaluation.
- Credentials of the assessor.
The responsibility for the completion of this safety report lies with the person responsible for placing the finished cosmetic product on the market, who must ensure compliance with the regulations and must ensure that the product that is being placed on the market is completely safe for consumers.
Which safety and legal protocols must be followed for a perfume or cosmetic to be authorised for marketing?
In order to place a cosmetic product on the market in accordance with the regulations of the perfume industry, several aspects must be taken into account:
- Regarding the formula: all the necessary tests must be available (stability, compatibility, microbiology, etc.) to ensure its efficacy, its integrity… In addition, it is necessary that the raw materials comply with all cosmetic legislation (suitable for cosmetic products) and, perfumes must comply with their own IFRA legislation.
- Regarding product claims: it is necessary to test the product if you want to indicate messages such as “Suitable for sensitive skin”, “Hypoallergenic” or “Tolerance tested under dermatological/paediatric control, “, to name just a few examples.
In addition, the product must be labelled in a way that facilitates consumer use so there is no room for misinterpretations or doubts. The cosmetic regulation is very clear on this point, as unpleasant situations such as malpractice or consumer deception can be avoided.
Other important issues include:
- Packaging: all packaging elements in direct contact with the product must be suitable for cosmetic formulations.
- The product must undergo the above-mentioned safety assessment and must be notified on the European Cosmetic Product Notification Portal (CPNP) before being placed on the market.
- A cosmetic dossier (PIF) must be drawn up for each product, containing all the data relating to the product (formula, safety assessment, information on raw materials and packaging elements, all tests, labelling texts, etc.).
Which organisations are responsible for safety in the perfume and cosmetics industry?
Several organisations are responsible for ensuring safety in this industry. On the one hand, the Spanish Agency for Medicines and Medical Devices (AEMPS) is responsible for ensuring the safety of cosmetics for their manufacture, packaging and distribution and for establishing inspections in those locations where this type of activity is carried out. On the other hand, there are the various ISO standards applied to the cosmetics industry, such as toxicology experts, who evaluate the safety of the product, the cosmetic surveillance processes in the market, and so on.
In addition, behind each cosmetic product there must be a person responsible for ensuring compliance with all the above-mentioned applicable regulations, who must respond quickly to any health alert, ingestion or intoxication, providing all the information on the concerned cosmetic product.
The safety requirements for fragrances and cosmetics respond to standards governed by constantly updated regulations. How does a perfume and cosmetics manufacturer work to keep up to date and meet deadlines when products need to be reformulated?
To keep up to date in the industry in terms of legislation and regulations, it is necessary to maintain constant contact with the organisations in charge of reviewing standards, as well as with associations and agencies in the industry, such as Stanpa, the National Association of Perfumery and Cosmetics and the AEMPS, among others. It is necessary to work closely with suppliers of raw materials, to attend trade fairs and congresses and to provide continuous training for all the company departments involved in the process of launching a cosmetic product on the market.
What is the Green Deal and what consequences will it have for perfume and cosmetics manufacturing?
The European Green Deal is a set of policy initiatives to put the EU in the process of a green transition, which aims to achieve ‘climate neutrality’ by 2050. It addresses issues such as stopping the production of greenhouse gas emissions, creating a competitive industry, constructing renovated and energy-efficient buildings and increasing the use of public transport and the use/production of renewable and clean energy, as well as designing, developing and manufacturing more durable products that are repairable, recyclable and reusable.
Regarding the manufacturing of perfumes and cosmetics, the Green Deal may be reflected in the production processes (reduction of gas emissions, self-consumption of energy, use of recycled and recyclable materials and reprocessing), in the transportation of raw materials and the finished product or in the digitalisation of processes and services (eliminating paper consumption).
At Àuria Perfumes we are ready for the sustainable transformation of the perfume industry and we have been working for some time on a strategic plan to reduce our carbon footprint, which includes energy self-consumption, energy efficiency in processes and facilities and a sustainable approach to the product lines we design and produce at our plant in Igualada. We take care of the entire perfume design and production process, including the protocols relating to the regulations and standards of the perfume industry, so that the product we deliver is ready to be marketed.
If you are a brand or a distributor looking for a line of perfumes in which both environmental and social sustainability are a priority – we are a special employment centre in which 70% of our employees have special needs- we are your partner to successfully carry out your project.