At Àuria Perfumes we design and manufacture perfumes for third parties with the highest quality standards, thanks to our high-capacity perfume laboratory and production plant, which hold all the necessary certificates and employ qualified professionals, ready to produce fragrances and cosmetics tailored to each client. We spoke to Carol Corma, Àuria Perfumes’ technical laboratory manager, who explained how a perfume laboratory works.
This is how a perfume laboratory works
“There must be full coordination between the perfume laboratory and the production department”, Carol Corma, Àuria Perfumes’ technical laboratory manager.
Could you describe a typical day in a perfume laboratory?
There must be full coordination between the perfume and cosmetics laboratory and the production department. This way, we can meet the production schedule and the quality standards required by our customers.
We carry out controls of the packaging material as well as of the raw material to be used during production. Additionally, during the manufacturing process, we carry out regular controls to ensure that we are working within the parameters and specifications defined for each product.
In addition to these manufacturing verifications, we carry out additional controls on other processes that affect production:
- Control of process water.
- Control of scales.
- Control of the calibrations of equipment involved in the processes.
- Control of the records generated in the different operations.
Could you describe the evolution of the working method of a perfume laboratory?
A laboratory is a living element that must adapt to the evolution of both legal requirements and technological innovation. It must improve in terms of the accuracy of the analysis results, as well as in the optimisation and efficiency of such results by adapting to the new requirements of the applicable regulations.
What are the latest developments in terms of ingredients for perfumes and active ingredients for cosmetics?
The cosmetics industry is constantly evolving. It is a very demanding market, so we must look for effective ingredients that are both safe for consumers and respectful of the environment.
We improve the extraction systems of the components we use to create the essences so as not to lose olfactory notes that could be very interesting and, consequently, we also improve the synthesis to obtain products similar to those found in nature, at a much lower cost.
By means of chromatography techniques, our fragrance laboratory manages to identify the components of the extracts, making it possible to identify the components responsible for the scents, for example, in different areas of a plant, such as leaves, flowers and roots.
Which technologies do you normally use and how do you optimise the formulas to improve the final product?
In this industry, resources and machinery must be optimised in order to be as respectful as possible with the raw materials used to preserve the characteristics of the product. This means that the perfume and cosmetics laboratory must control the formula from the beginning, monitoring its stability over time, as well as its compatibility with the material in which it will be packaged. Once this first and essential step has been taken, the control of the critical parameters continues during the manufacturing and packaging process, so that the quality of the product is maintained throughout the whole process.
“It is a very demanding market, so we must look for effective ingredients that are both safe for consumers and respectful of the environment”, Carol Corma.
What certifications do you have?
We currently have the ISO 9001, ISO 22716, ISO 14001, ISO 45001 and COSMOS certifications, accredited by Ecocert Greenlife.
This year, we are starting to work towards certification in the IFS standard, which applies to cosmetic products. This is a new challenge we have accepted in order to respond to market demands.
All these certifications, especially the one regarding cosmetic products, are designed to build trust and offer transparency and quality both to end consumers and to the companies that implement them or require the subcontracting of services from certified companies such as ours.
We cannot forget that the market is becoming increasingly strict in terms of quality controls and safety requirements before introducing a new cosmetic product on the market.
What do clients demand most in perfume and cosmetics projects?
Nowadays, customers want innovative and surprising fragrances. They value natural brands that are committed to the environment.
What does it mean for the laboratory to work with the Ecocert certification for natural cosmetics?
For the laboratory, it means working with protocols that are validated in accordance with the COSMOS standard. All the ingredients involved in the manufacturing of the product must be validated according to this reference standard.
For us, it means accepting a series of commitments:
- Promoting the use of products obtained from organic farming.
- Respecting biodiversity.
- Using manufacturing processes that are clean and respectful of the environment and human health.
- Using natural resources in a responsible and environmentally friendly way.
“In order to protect and keep consumers informed, there is a constant updating of regulations regarding product labelling”, Carol Corma, Àuria Perfumes’ technical laboratory manager.
People are becoming increasingly aware of the skin’s microbiome. Why is it so important to keep it balanced with the appropriate cosmetic formulas?
The skin microbiome is composed of a wide variety of micro-organisms. It can be modified by various factors and is dynamic, as there are variations throughout life. The micro-organisms and the host live in a symbiotic relationship. For this reason, the dermal microbiome is a key element in the defence of the dermis as it keeps pathogenic micro-organisms at bay.
When this system is in balance, the skin is:
- Protected, because it releases antioxidants, thus creating a protective shield against pathogens and external aggressions.
- Calmed, since it reduces reduces irritation and inflammation
- Repaired, since it recovers sooner from any damage and becomes much more resistant.
When this balance is disturbed, harmful pathogens proliferate, causing skin disorders:
- Perfumes with a high alcohol content.
- Excessive hygiene can damage the pH of the skin, and we must not forget that micro-organisms need an environment in optimal conditions to survive.
- Pollution and stress.
- Any product that irritates the skin (detergents, creams and make-up products).
- Pollution, which can cause changes in the composition of the skin’s micro-organisms, accelerating ageing.
- Topical antibiotics can be dangerous if taken without a prescription, because they cause resistant strains, which makes these products less effective over time.
In order to prevent this, it is recommended to use skin-friendly hygiene products. In this regard, we should avoid cosmetic formulas that include certain chemical substances:
- Parabens.
- Silicones.
- Sulphates.
- Phthalates.
- Allergens to which we may be sensitised.
How is consumer safety ensured?
The scientific community is constantly working to identify products that might be harmful and periodically updating the lists of banned or restricted raw materials.
On the other hand, in order to protect and keep consumers informed, there is a constant updating of regulations regarding product labelling.
